How to Do a Fast, Easy Smoky Eye

I’ve done more smoky eyes than I could ever count. Backstage, on shoots, on other people and on myself. And the thing I’ve learnt? The best ones rarely come from being too precise.

A smoky eye should look blended, lived-in and a little imperfect. You don’t need twenty products or immaculate technique. You need a few good shades, a decent blending brush and the confidence to give it a go. 

Here’s how I do mine.

1. Start With Skin

I always start with my base, keeping it natural and building coverage only where I need it. You can always go back with concealer later to clean up any eyeshadow that falls beneath the eyes.

Primer is optional. I rarely use one on shoots because I like to be able to move makeup around, but if your eyeshadow tends to crease or disappear, an eye primer can make a difference.

2. Don't Overdo Your Brows

Brush brows into place and only fill the areas that look sparse. I prefer brows to look like brows, particularly when the eyes are the focus.

3. Build Your Smoke

Choose two or three complementary eyeshadows rather than trying to use an entire palette.

I like to start with a khaki or muted iridescent shade, concentrating the colour along the lash line and blending upwards. Then I'll work a warmer matte shade into the socket.

The trick is layer, blend, repeat. Building thin layers gives you more control than putting loads of pigment on at once. And don't worry about being too neat. You're going to blend it anyway.

4. Add Definition

Take the darkest shade along the outer lash line with an angled brush, extending it slightly at the outer corner. For something smokier and more intense, use a kohl pencil instead.

This is also where I like to introduce unexpected colour. A blue, green or burgundy pencil along the waterline can completely change the look without making it complicated.

5. Clean It Up

Once the eyes are finished, use a small amount of concealer beneath them to pick up any fallout and sharpen the outer edge.

Less is more. You're cleaning up the makeup, not applying another layer beneath your eyes.

6. Go Big on Lashes

A smoky eye needs lashes. I use RUM Wrap Party in Taxi, our blackest black tubing mascara. Work it through the upper lashes from root to tip, wiggling the wand slightly to catch every lash, then layer to build drama while the formula is still wet.

Taxi gives me the depth I want with a smoky eye and keeps the lashes beautifully separated and fanned out rather than heavy and clumpy.

And because it's tubing mascara, it stays where I put it rather than slowly joining the smoky eye underneath.

7. Bring Back Some Warmth

Once you've added darker colours around the eyes, a little warmth through the complexion stops everything looking flat.

I prefer bronzer used where the sun would naturally hit the face - around the hairline, across the cheekbones and lightly over the bridge of the nose - rather than heavily sculpting the face.

Add highlighter sparingly. You want skin, not stripes.

8. Keep the Lip Easy

If I've gone big on the eyes, I usually keep the lips close to their natural colour.

Rather than applying lipstick straight from the bullet, I push it into the lips with my finger. It gives a softer, less finished effect. Then I'll use a little liner where I need definition.

The Bottom (Lash) Line

The best smoky eyes aren't perfect. Start dark around the lashes, build slowly, blend more than you think you need to and don't be frightened of making a bit of a mess along the way.

@samchapman